Kikeru Archive

Friday, 24 September 2010

Dipping and Hiking in Mitake

Tama (gawa) river, Mitake
Ive always been dreaming about taking a dip in a river after my first ever experience in Hiroshima some 3 years ago. I never thought about swimming in a river or sea in Japan. To me there just no place that could compensate for what I left behind. The pristine clear waters of Solomon Islands, the beaches and rivers and the family and friends that you share it with is just irreplaceable.
One summer my Japanese friend took us to Hiroshima just for a short trip, we stayed in a little village 40 minutes from the city. The little cottage was up on a slope and at the bottom of the hill is the river. My friend told me and another fellow Islander friend to go look around not realising that we would end up swimming in the river.

The following summer I joined a couple of friends, we went to Kobe's Suma beach. I was disgusted, especially at the sight of huge pipes releasing significant amount of household and industrial waste into the ocean where I was taking a dip. I complained the whole time but ofcourse my friends wouldn't understand, this is what they are used to. Even the sand feels recycled, the water lost all its saltiness replaced by a bad stench.

Big red gate leading to the cable car station

When I moved to Tokyo, I vowed only to dip in clean clear water. That explains  my 2 years without going to the beach, I got invitations left and right but I couldn't bring myself to accept. My experience at Kobe left me traumatised, vowing never to go to any beach for as long as I live in japan.
This summer I made a list of things to do in summer fearing that it could be my last, since I started thinking about leaving for good.
I was reading through a blog about the best place to take a dip and this guy suggested Tama river near  Mitake station. Just like me he felt the need to run away from the headaches of Tokyo and immerse himself in any cool and clean river he could find. So taking his advice on what to expect, to look out for and how to get there, we  left Tokyo.
My boyfriend and I arrived around 3pm at the Mitake station and its right there, 2 minutes walk. We started looking for the best spot to set up our picnic mat and jump right in. It was great, a bit too cold but was worth the 2 hours train ride. As expected the rier was below 10 degrees celcius but its exactly what we needed in this summer heat. Tama river is a bit dangerous if you dont know what you are doing, rocks every where and the strenght of its flow is terrifying. One mistake could land you flat against one of the rocks. After an hour or so we decided to down river in the direction of the next station.
The following weekend we decided to hike mount Mitake. We got up early and left Tokyo around 9am. Getting there takes 2 hours maximum, the problem is that most chuo rapid lines that head in that direction are all local trains which stops at each and every station along the way.
We arrived at mitake station and head straight for the information centre, its right in front of the only  exit. After picking out the trail we wanted to do we left. There is a public bus that leaves for the cable car station every 10 minutes. On the map it looks really close so we decided to walk there instead. It took us an hour to get to the cable car on foot (*note to self: take the bus next time). Once we reach the cable car station we rested abit and then challenged ourselves in hiking it rather than taking the cable car. The hike up was exhausting and since its primarily designed for vehicles there were a thousand curves. It takes at least 2 hours to reach the summit.
Musashi-mitake shrine
The view from the top was breath taking , the musashi mitake shrine is just one of the highlights of mount mitake. It is one of the greatest holy sites constructed in the Kanto area. On top of the Mt Mitake, there are 24 temple lodging facilities, 9 shops and cafeterias.
Ritual at the Ayahironotaki falls
From the shrine there are various hiking options to neighboring peaks and valleys. From the shrine we headed for the Nanayonotaki waterfall. An impressive and spectacular little waterfall that makes you want to jump right in only to freeze *to death*. When we arrived, there were a bunch of Russian tourist dressed in white doing a ritual I assume, lead by a Japanese. They were humming and clapping their hand while taking turns in going under the fall. Next up was the ladies turn, they did the same thing for over an hour, I'm not sure what it means but cold showers is good remedy for tonnes of syndrome so there you go.........
From the waterfall we headed towards the rock garden. At first I didn't even realise we were already in the rock garden, I was expecting rocks arranged in a particular theme or something. The rock garden is just the rocks along a small stream covered in moss.
We headed upstream to the other waterfall, Ayahironotaki. Another beautiful waterfall with an entrance and a worship site. From the fall we started making our way back to the shrine to return home since its started to get dark. 
I suggest that the best route to take is from the shrine head to the nanayonotaki falls because its really steep and best go down that way than climbing. Then to the rock garden and back to the shrine before heading for the cable car.
Unfortunately we weren't in time for the last cable car so we had to hike down to the station. Night fell right before we started but as always my ever prepared partner did have his torch with him. It took us almost 2 hours to make it back to Mitake station. When we finally got home it was around 9:30pm, totally exhausted.
Mount mitake is an excellent place to go hiking, the tracks are steep but doesn't require hiking equipments just wear comfortable shoes *I survived with my converse* and a good backpack. For serious Hikers, there are trails leading to Mount Takao or Okutama station.
To go there, take the chuo rapid line from shinjuku station heading for Ome (you can change along the way also), then from Ome , chnage to another line that goes to Okutama and get off at Mitake station.
Mitake is just the perfect one day get away after a long and hectic week in Tokyo. You can just stay by the Tama river or head up the mountain and don't miss this autumn when everything turns red . What a great way to kick start your fall.............





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